The plant in zones — how an Australian cosmetic facility actually lays out
The hard part of HVAC specification for this vertical is not any single zone but the combination. A real Australian site — a Sukin contract manufacturer in Dandenong, an Ego Pharmaceuticals SunSense line in Melbourne, an Aesop facility in Toorak, a Goldfield & Banks perfume kitchen in Tasmania, a Wella hair-colour blending site — has between eight and fifteen distinct ventilation zones, each with its own duct specification, pressurisation regime, filtration strategy and capture velocity. Treating them all the same is the most expensive mistake on the project. The walk-through below covers the twelve zones we deliver duct packages for, in the order an operator visit normally takes them.
Zone 1 — raw materials warehouse
The warehouse stores oil-phase ingredients (caprylic/capric triglyceride, jojoba, squalane, dimethicone), aqueous-phase ingredients (deionised water, glycerin, propylene glycol, aloe extract), powder ingredients (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, mica, talc, kaolin, silica, carbon black, pearl pigment), preservatives (parabens replacement chemistry, BIT, MIT, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate), surfactants (sodium lauryl sulphate, cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside) and fragrance bases. Stability of the paste, powder and fragrance bases is the design problem. SBKJ specifies climate-controlled 18 to 22 degrees Celsius and 40 to 60 percent relative humidity as the warehouse baseline. Duct is 304L stainless or insulated galvanised acceptable here because the warehouse is outside the GMP envelope. The ventilation rate is set by AS 1668.2 minimum outdoor air plus a humidity allowance. Fragrance and ethanol-based ingredients trigger a separate Class 3 flammable liquid store under AS 1940, which carries its own ventilation rate of 10 to 15 air changes per hour and explosion-relief venting.
Zone 2 — pigment and powder weighing and dispensing room
This room is the single most common HVAC failure point on Australian cosmetic plants. Titanium dioxide for sunscreen, zinc oxide for sunscreen and barrier creams, iron oxide for foundation and blush, mica for highlighter and shimmer, talc and kaolin for pressed powder, carbon black for mascara, and pearl pigments are weighed in this room. Every one of them is fine enough to aerosolise during the act of pouring from sack to bin, and several of them sit on combustible-dust hazard registers. SBKJ specifies local exhaust ventilation at the dispensing station with a capture velocity of 0.75 to 1.0 metre per second at the source, ducted through a baghouse with explosion-relief venting per NFPA 660, then HEPA H13 polish before discharge. Duct is 304L stainless to the baghouse, 316L on the post-baghouse run if HEPA discharge is recirculated to the room. The room is classified ISO 14644 Class 7 (Grade C) with negative pressure of 5 to 10 Pascals against the adjoining compounding suite. Operators wear PPE rated for the highest-hazard pigment present (typically titanium dioxide nanoparticle grade), and the room is swept by floor-level extract on the opposite wall to remove settled dust before it re-aerosolises.
The combustible-dust hazard analysis under NFPA 660 needs a Kst (deflagration index) value for every pigment and a minimum ignition energy. Carbon black for mascara is the highest-hazard stream — the dust hazard analysis routinely recommends inerting of the baghouse with nitrogen at start-up and during cleaning. SBKJ duct flanges are bonded with continuous earth strap for static dissipation and the baghouse vent is sized per the appropriate combustible-dust deflagration methodology to relieve at the design Pred.
Zone 3 — bulk compounding (skincare cream, lotion, serum)
Bulk compounding for a skincare cream is the heart of the plant. An oil-in-water emulsion (the typical lotion) involves dispersing oil-phase ingredients in a jacketed heated vessel at 70 to 80 degrees Celsius, dispersing aqueous-phase ingredients in a second heated vessel, transferring the aqueous phase into the oil under high shear from a homogeniser (Silverson, IKA, EKATO, Olsa or Niagara depending on scale), holding at homogenisation for 10 to 30 minutes, cooling to 30 degrees Celsius and adding heat-sensitive actives (vitamin C, peptides, niacinamide), fragrance and preservative. Water-in-oil emulsions for richer creams reverse the addition order. The HVAC consequence is heat load, steam release at hot-fill stages, fragrance and preservative vapour and humidity rejection during cooling. SBKJ specifies a localised canopy hood above the homogeniser at 0.5 m/s face velocity, ducted to a dedicated VOC exhaust if the fragrance loading is above 1 percent by mass. Duct material is 304L stainless for the supply, 316L stainless for the VOC exhaust where fragrance is present. The room operates ISO 14644 Class 8 with positive pressure against the airlock.
Zone 4 — sunscreen compounding (TGA-regulated, AS/NZS 2604)
SPF sunscreens are technically a sub-category of skincare compounding but the regulatory uplift and the pigment-handling intensity make them a separate zone in plant design. A typical SPF 30 to SPF 50+ formulation contains 5 to 25 percent zinc oxide, 5 to 15 percent titanium dioxide and 1 to 10 percent organic UV filters (octocrylene, oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate, ensulizole, bemotrizinol). The pigment is added either as a pre-dispersed paste (lower dust risk) or as a powder direct addition (higher dust risk, more uniform film). Film-thickness measurement during the trial batch is critical to verifying the SPF claim under AS/NZS 2604.
HVAC for SPF compounding is: ISO 14644 Class 7 over the open kettle, localised extract above the powder addition point at 0.75 m/s capture, jacketed kettle vent to a dedicated VOC line for the organic UV filter solvent (octocrylene is a low-volatility liquid but the carrier and processing aids can be volatile), positive pressurisation 12 to 15 Pa against the corridor. Duct material is 304L stainless for the supply and return, 316L stainless for the powder addition extract and the kettle vent. Sealed-seam SMACNA Class A throughout the GMP envelope. The TGA inspector will read this commissioning trail and SBKJ’s as-built documentation is designed to deliver every input that the inspector asks for.
A note on isolators. Modern SPF lines increasingly use a fully closed formulation isolator for the pigment addition step — the operator works through gloves into a sealed box, the pigment is dosed through a bag-in/bag-out port, and the room HVAC sees only the isolator exhaust rather than the bulk dust. SBKJ supplies the isolator exhaust duct in 316L stainless with full TIG seam weld, terminating at a baghouse-HEPA-discharge train. The isolator itself is ISO 14644 Class 5 internally.
Zone 5 — fragrance and perfume mix room (Zone 1 ethanol)
This is the highest-hazard zone on the plant and the one where most cosmetic engineers under-specify the duct on first pass. An eau de toilette compounding tank can hold 60 to 80 percent ethanol by volume with 5 to 25 percent fragrance concentrate. Ethanol has a workplace exposure standard of 1000 ppm TWA, a lower explosive limit of 3.3 percent in air (33000 ppm) and a flashpoint of 13 degrees Celsius. The headspace above an open compounding tank during charging operations will easily exceed the LEL. AS/NZS 60079.10.1 hazardous-area classification will declare the interior of the tank Zone 0, the immediate space around the open manway Zone 1, and the bulk of the room Zone 2 within a defined radius.
The HVAC consequence is fundamental. Every electrical item in the Zone 1 envelope must be IECEx or ATEX Ex-d certified for Group IIA T3 (the relevant grouping for ethanol). The fan motor on the dedicated exhaust serving the compounding tank must be IECEx Ex-d certified. The fan impeller must be spark-resistant per AMCA Type B (non-ferrous wheel against non-ferrous inlet, or one part non-ferrous). Static electricity dissipation continuity must be verified across every flange in the duct from the tank to the discharge fan. The duct material must be 316L stainless because zinc galvanising sheds particulate inside the duct under ethanol-laden flow and the particulate becomes an ignition fuel hazard. SBKJ specifies longitudinal TIG seam weld on every 316L Zone 1 fragrance exhaust run stitched on the SB-ZF1500 automatic stitchwelder for continuous seam construction.
The dedicated exhaust serving the fragrance mix room is typically discharged through a wet scrubber (sized for ethanol absorption and fragrance VOC removal) or through an activated carbon scrubber with regenerative cycling. The discharge stack is 316L stainless of equivalent grade to the duct. The local exhaust capture velocity at the manway during charging is 1.0 m/s minimum.
Quality control is the second design constraint in a fragrance mix room. Olfactory testing happens in a separate sensory panel evaluation room with its own clean supply air so the panel’s nose is not anchored to the compounding atmosphere. SBKJ delivers separate stainless supply ducts to the sensory panel room with carbon-filtered outdoor air at low velocity.
Zone 6 — aroma compounding for alcohol- and oil-based fragrance
Larger fragrance houses split aroma compounding from the eau de toilette dilution. The aroma compounding bench (the perfumer’s organ) blends raw essential oils, isolates, synthetics and bases into the fragrance concentrate. Volumes are smaller (typically 1 to 50 kg batches) but the diversity of solvents is highest — absolute alcohol, dipropylene glycol, isopropyl myristate, diethyl phthalate as carriers. Capture is by individual bench-top point-extraction at the sample bottle, ducted to the same Zone 1 system as the main mix room. The bench is typically inside a glove-box style isolator for premium fragrance houses (Goldfield & Banks, Aesop, Bondi Wash).
Zone 7 — hair care compounding (shampoo, conditioner, treatment)
Surfactant-based formulations — shampoo, body wash, conditioner, hair treatment — are usually water-dominant emulsions with 10 to 30 percent active surfactant load (sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium laureth sulphate, cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside) plus conditioning agents (cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, dimethicone), preservatives, fragrance and pH adjusters. The HVAC consequence is minor compared with fragrance or pigment work. SBKJ specifies 304L stainless duct for supply and return, modest local extract over the kettle for fragrance load, ISO Class 8 with positive pressurisation. The pH meter station has a benchtop capture hood because the pH adjuster (citric acid, sodium hydroxide) generates mist during dosing.
Zone 8 — hair colour compounding (oxidative dye, ammonia, peroxide)
Permanent oxidative hair colour compounding is one of two zones with Zone 2 gas hazard classification on a typical site (the other is the fragrance mix room). The dye component is alkalised with ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, typically 1 to 6 percent ammonia by mass. The developer component contains hydrogen peroxide at 3, 6, 9 or 12 percent by mass. The reactive intermediate chemistry — p-phenylenediamine, p-aminophenol, resorcinol and other aniline-derived intermediates — is sensitising and on the watch list of the EU Cosmetic Regulation. Wella, Schwarzkopf, L’Oreal, Henkel and the Australian-distribution majors all manufacture or co-pack hair colour locally to Australian-specific shade ranges.
SBKJ specifies local exhaust at the ammonia charging station and the dye mixing kettle with 1.0 m/s capture velocity, ducted through a 316L stainless exhaust to a wet scrubber with citric acid neutralisation feed. The peroxide developer kettle has its own extract because the peroxide vapour at elevated temperature is an oxidising hazard and cannot share duct with the ammonia stream (ammonia plus hydrogen peroxide reacts). 304L stainless is acceptable for the peroxide line; 316L mandatory for the ammonia line. The fan motor must be IECEx Ex-d certified for the ammonia run because AS/NZS 60079 Zone 2 is the conservative declaration. Room pressurisation negative 5 to 10 Pa against the corridor.
Zone 9 — colour cosmetics (lipstick, lip gloss, eyeshadow, blush, foundation, mascara)
Colour cosmetic compounding has two distinct character types. Wax-based products — lipstick, lip balm, eyebrow pencil, kohl — are made by heating a wax/oil base (carnauba wax, candelilla, beeswax, microcrystalline wax, castor oil, octyldodecanol) to 80 to 90 degrees Celsius, dispersing pigment paste, blending with fragrance and active and casting into moulds or sticks. The HVAC consequence is heat plume, wax aerosol over the melt pot and pigment dust during the dispersion stage. SBKJ specifies a canopy hood above the melt pot at 0.5 m/s, 304L stainless duct, ISO Class 8 with positive pressurisation. Powder-based products — pressed powder, eyeshadow, blush, bronzer, highlighter — involve pigment blending in a horizontal blender, slurry milling, pressing into pans. Pigment dust dominates the HVAC design: local exhaust over the blender and the press at 0.75 m/s capture, ducted to a baghouse with explosion-relief venting, ISO Class 7 with negative pressurisation. Foundation (liquid and cushion) is an oil-in-water emulsion with pigment paste added and follows the skincare compounding HVAC pattern with pigment extract added.
Mascara and eyeliner have a distinct profile because carbon black is the dominant pigment. Carbon black at 3.5 mg/m³ inhalable, IARC Group 2B, with explosive dust potential when handled dry. SBKJ specifies a dedicated mascara compounding suite with HEPA H14 supply, 316L stainless duct on the supply and return, local exhaust over the carbon black addition point at 1.0 m/s capture velocity, baghouse with nitrogen-inerted at startup, ISO Class 7 with negative pressurisation. The carbon black hazard analysis under NFPA 660 typically recommends bonding of every drum during pouring and continuous static dissipation monitoring on the duct flange train.
Zone 10 — nail polish compounding and filling (Zone 1)
Solvent-based nail polish lacquer is the highest solvent loading on the entire plant. The lacquer base is nitrocellulose (10 to 15 percent) dissolved in ethyl acetate (30 to 40 percent), butyl acetate (15 to 25 percent) and isopropanol (10 to 15 percent), with toluene or xylene (5 to 10 percent) as a co-solvent in older formulations and camphor or tosylamide formaldehyde resin as a plasticiser. The solvent loading is 70 to 80 percent by mass. Toluene 50 ppm TWA, xylene 50 ppm TWA, ethyl acetate 300 ppm TWA — all three will be breached without dedicated capture. AS/NZS 60079.10.1 Zone 1 inside the equipment and Zone 2 around the compounding tank is the conservative declaration.
SBKJ specifies 316L stainless TIG-seam-welded exhaust duct from the kettle and filling head, IECEx Ex-d certified fan motor, spark-resistant fan impeller, RTO (regenerative thermal oxidiser) or activated carbon scrubber on the discharge, 316L stainless stack to atmosphere. Capture velocity 1.0 m/s minimum. The RTO inlet plenum and any inter-stage duct between RTO modules is fabricated in 316L on the SBKJ SB-ZF1500 stitchwelder for full leak-tight construction at elevated temperature. Nitrocellulose is a low-stability nitrate ester (Dangerous Goods Class 4.1 solid in the wetted form) and the compounding room is generally classified as a Hazardous Goods Area under the State dangerous-goods regime with an explosion-relief panel in the roof.
Zone 11 — aerosol filling (hairspray, deodorant, sunscreen spray, perfume spray)
Aerosol filling combines a hazardous propellant (LPG — propane/butane mix — or DME — dimethyl ether — or nitrogen) with a hazardous product (ethanol-rich fragrance, or alcohol-based sunscreen spray, or solvent-loaded hairspray). Both legs of the hazard need to be controlled. AS 1940 governs the propellant storage. The Australian Aerosol Manufacturers Association code of practice governs filling. AS/NZS 60079.10.1 Zone 1 is declared at the filling head where propellant injection occurs and Zone 2 around the conveyor.
SBKJ specifies 316L stainless TIG-seam-welded exhaust duct above the filling head, leak detection on every joint, IECEx Ex-d fan motor, spark-resistant impeller, 1.0 m/s minimum capture, dedicated explosion-vented exhaust stack discharging above the roofline. Static dissipation continuity verified across every flange. Many Australian aerosol plants are co-located with the cosmetic-cream filling on the same site (Banana Boat, Sunsense, Hamilton, Cancer Council all produce both spray and cream sunscreens) and the duct riser must keep the Zone 1 aerosol filling exhaust segregated from the conventional cream filling supply — never tie a Zone 1 exhaust into a general extract manifold.
Zone 12 — cream, lotion, serum filling and capping
Tube filling (Tubex, IGUS, OPTIMA, Holopack, Marchesini machines), jar filling, pump-bottle filling, sachet and stick-pack filling. Volumes 5 to 500 mL per unit, line speeds 30 to 200 units per minute. The HVAC is dominated by the cleanroom requirement — ISO 14644 Class 7 over the filling head, ISO Class 8 in the room, terminal HEPA H13 in the supply, positive pressurisation 12 to 15 Pa against the airlock. Duct material 304L stainless on the supply downstream of the final filter; 316L if the line is dedicated to ethanol-containing toners or aftershaves. Sealed-seam SMACNA Class A throughout. Local extract above the filling head is modest, primarily for occasional spill cleanup and idle line ventilation.
Zone 13 — shampoo, conditioner and body wash filling
Lower-cleanliness filling for surfactant rinse-off products. ISO 14644 Class 8 in the room, no HEPA requirement (MERV 14 final filter is the typical specification). 304L stainless duct because surfactant residue accumulates in the duct and needs to be washable. Sealed-seam transverse flanges. Local extract over the filling head for foam splashes is modest, with a sheet-metal drip tray below the duct serving as condensate collection.
Zone 14 — lipstick casting, moulding and printing
The classic lipstick casting line heats a wax-pigment-oil melt to 80 to 90 degrees Celsius in a jacketed pot, pours via positive-displacement dispenser into chilled metal moulds, demoulds the cooled bullet, flame-polishes the bullet surface and feeds it into the mechanical bullet-into-tube assembly. The HVAC consequence is wax aerosol (a fine mist of micro-droplets above the melt pot), heat plume and pigment from the dispersion stage if dispersion happens in the same room. SBKJ specifies canopy hood above the melt pot at 0.5 m/s, 304L stainless duct, modest dedicated extract over the flame-polish station because the flame burns wax residue, ISO Class 8. Lip balm casting follows the same HVAC pattern. Where the lip balm is FSANZ flavour-bearing the duct construction tightens to food-grade washable standard.
Zone 15 — liquid filling (eau de toilette, aftershave, toner, cleanser)
Ethanol-rich liquid filling on rotary or linear fillers (KHS, KRONES for the largest, Marchesini and OPTIMA for premium boutique, custom-built for niche fragrance houses). Concentration 60 to 95 percent ethanol means AS/NZS 60079 Zone 1 inside the filler and Zone 2 around the conveyor. 316L stainless duct on the localised extract above the filling head, IECEx Ex-d fan motor, spark-resistant impeller, ISO Class 7 over the filling head, ISO Class 8 in the room. The filling room itself can be ISO 8 outside the Zone 1 envelope, but the supply air must pass through HEPA H13 over the filling head and must be conditioned to 18 to 22 degrees Celsius and 40 to 55 percent RH to prevent fragrance composition shift due to humidity uptake.
Zone 16 — powder filling (loose powder, pressed powder, eyeshadow palette, blush)
Powder filling for loose face powder, eyeshadow palette, blush pan and bronzer involves dispensing fine powder through volumetric or auger fillers into the finished primary pack. Dust generation is highest at the filling head. SBKJ specifies local exhaust above and below the filling head at 1.0 m/s capture, baghouse on the extract with HEPA polish, ISO Class 7 with negative pressurisation, 316L stainless duct on the extract to the baghouse and 304L on the post-baghouse polish discharge. The room operates under positive pressure to the warehouse but negative to the airlock corridor.
Zone 17 — blister and press-pack assembly (lipstick, lip balm, mascara, eyeliner, kohl pencil)
The mechanical assembly stage where the lipstick bullet is fitted into the tube, the mascara brush is fitted into the bottle, the eyeliner pencil is sharpened and tipped, the kohl is set into the wood casing. Mechanical heat from the machinery, some lubricant aerosol, ISO Class 8 cleanliness. 304L stainless duct with sealed-seam transverse flange. Modest dedicated extract over the sharpening station if used.
Zone 18 — labelling, pack-out, gift-set and carton
Cartonising, shrink-wrap, labelling, hot-melt glue, gift-set assembly. Outside the GMP envelope, AS 1668.2 minimum ventilation, hot-melt extraction at the gluer because adhesive vapour exceeds nuisance odour levels in a closed room. Galvanised duct acceptable here because the area is outside the cleanroom. Stainless from earlier zones is not required.
Zone 19 — pilot kitchen and sample lab
R&D pilot scale formulation, sensory evaluation, instrumental testing (rheology, particle size, pH, viscometry). Fume hoods over solvent-handling benches with face velocity 0.5 m/s minimum verified annually per AS/NZS 2243.8. Dedicated fragrance evaluation booths with carbon-filtered outdoor air. 304L stainless duct on fume hood exhaust, 316L if the exhaust is shared with the production fragrance Zone 1 line (which it should not be).
Zone 20 — sensory panel and clinical testing room
Eye sensitivity, stinging, skin patch test, hair colour test, in-use trials. Cleanroom-grade clean supply air, low VOC environment, controlled temperature 21 to 23 degrees Celsius, 45 to 55 percent RH. 304L stainless supply duct with HEPA H13, return through carbon-filtered extract to remove odour from previous panellists before the next session.
Zone 21 — worker amenity, change rooms and PPE corridors
Cosmetic GMP contamination control depends on the operator change protocol — hair net or beard net, lab coat or jumpsuit, gloves, shoe cover, optional safety glasses. The change room must be ventilated with HEPA-filtered supply air, positive against the operator outdoor entry and equal-or-negative against the cleanroom airlock to maintain the cascade. 304L stainless supply duct, ISO Class 8 with positive against street and equal to clean side.